On the train to Bucharest: A border official checks our passports – nothing new. But next to that we have to deal with a new team of conductors who tell us that now we have to pay even more money for the bicycle transport. At the counter in Bulgaria we have been assured that we would not need to! After an intense 20 minute enduring discussion with the new conductors we are not paying! We do not have Romanian Lei yet anyway. Oh boy, I hate taking our bikes on a train in these countries already. Going by bike and not being dependent on third parties such as a train has been so easy and we could simply enjoy every single day.
Shortly before arriving Babs and I are outraged ourselves due to the endless discussion with the conductors and start fighting too. Built up anger plus the stress of the past days causes the glass to overflow and we become emotional at the main station in Bucharest. After three months of traveling together, we suddenly go separate ways. Uff, what a moment! Maybe this was what my tummy feeling has tried to tell me back in Sofia regarding the train to Bucharest!?
Alone and aimlessly I am cycling around in the twilight and eventually find myself in the dark side of Bucharest: Drunk people, whores, junkies, stray dogs, homeless people, abandoned children and trash is what I see. I am starving and do not have any money. At the ATM I manage to enter the incorrect pin three times in a row – the card is blocked. Wtf! Really!?
Here I am standing, late Saturday evening without any money, without internet access, without a plan. I am only telling myself: “Welcome to travellers’ life, Matthias! What are you going to do now?” I keep on cycling through the night, aimless but with a lot of thoughts going through my head. Some hours pass by and I sit in front of a bar with Wi-Fi and contact Babs. We are texting each other for an eternity before we finally meet again in a hostel in the middle of the night. After a long discussion and the clarification of some misunderstandings we are thankfully good again. On a long, intense and exhausting travel trip like this such a crisis is hard to avoid. The good thing: They may offer the opportunity to grow even closer together.
Now you know what can happen on the train to Bucharest or elsewhere…
What about you? Did you also experience any kind of crisis during your previous travel?
Hi,
So sorry to read about the issues with the trains in Romania. Since 2015, things have improved a bit and some of the trains operated by CFR (the Romanian national railway company) even have bike racks included. I have a personal suggestion: never try to bribe the conductors. Just buy the ticket for you and for the bike as well. If you buy the tickets and get in the train, they cannot make you pay extra or get you off the train.
Also, an important advice if you plan on travelling by train in Romania: look out for the private train companies. RegioCalatori has very good trains operating around Romania and taking your bike in these trains will cost you only 2,90 Lei (if your route is shorter than 100 km) or 4,80 Lei (for routes longer than 100 km). And they are way more flexible and understanding than the national railway company.
This would be the perfect choice of travelling from Bucharest to Brasov if you, for instance, are looking for bike tours in Transylvania. Here are also some suggestions for cycling tours in Transylvania, in the area around Brasov https://outdoorholidays.eu/cycling-tours-romania/
RegioCalatori also operates trains from Brasov to Zarnesti, which is a wonderful place to start exploring the mountain villages near Piatra Craiului National Park.
Softrans also operates some trains in Romania and Astra TransCarpatic, which are both high quality trains, although they have somehow limited routes.
But some CFR trains started to be modernized in the last years, as I said.
Whichever option you choose, avoid bribing the conductors.
If you’re considering coming back to Romania, I would be glad to help you with advice and recommendations.
Cheers!
Robert
Been there, done that :D
I also do a lot of travel with my bf and we fight on a regular basis. Especially, when it comes to compromises and often this is why real long trip travel, as not a lot of ppl know, can be really stressy and you both need time to come down and release stress. Oh, Matt, I can so relate to your story :D